Pilot Mountain Rock Climbing

South-facing quartzite cliffs with plenty of shade. Mostly toproping with bolts/rocks for anchors at the top (bring webbing/slings), but there is also sport/trad/mix available. Climbs vary from slab to overhanging with several roofs. Rock quality varies. Topropers be on the lookout for face bolt anchors that have been installed and use those whenever possible to minimize erosion.

Can get busy on the weekends, especially around Three Bears and Middle Walls, and very hot in the summer. Find the well-maintained trail in the SW corner of the parking lot and follow down through woods. Climbing area will be to your left with approach times from 2-10 minutes. Follow the stone trail down to Three Bears gully to access the base of the cliff. Staying on trail is critical to minimize the impact that 1.4 million visitors per year have on the park.

Climbers must register at the box in the parking lot for each vehicle in their party. The park asks that you avoid anchoring on trees and utilize bolts or rocks as anchors. All commercial, organized, or affiliated climbing groups of any size are required to have a special use permit in advance. The maximum group size allowed at Pilot is 14 people which includes guides, students, and spectators.

The old upper approach trail is closed and the Grindstone trail route is the new upper approach trail for the climbing area at Pilot now. More info here: https://www.ncparks.gov/pilot-mountain-state-park/home

Pilot Mountain Park Map.pdf